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TOP 5 BRANDS TO WATCH AT LONDON FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2025
Sep
2024 marks the 40th anniversary of London Fashion Week—four decades of classic tailoring, boundary-breaking designs, and new talent. Spring-Summer 2025 paints a colorful picture where personal stories intertwine with technology to create surprising performances. London Fashion Week, known for nurturing avant-garde talent, reinforces its position once again. The five brands below stand out, not just for designing clothes but also for telling unique stories and challenging boundaries. From technology integration to unique combinations, London designers transform fashion into a playground of endless creativity.
S.S. Daley
Inspired by British artist Gluck, S.S. Daley’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection marks a bold exploration of womenswear. For Gluck, clothing was a means of self-expression. Drawing inspiration from feminine portraits of lovers, Daley embarks on a creative journey blending traditional menswear with the softness of women’s fashion. “Gluck built identity through clothing, and this collection seeks to delve deeper into that universe,” says Daley. The contrast of strength and delicacy, tradition and modernity, creates a unique collection that views gender and identity from a multifaceted perspective.
The collection presents an impressive contrast: the rigidity of structure paired with soft materials, sharp lines intertwined with flowing curves. A pristine white trench coat, military-inspired, takes on a romantic air when paired with a ruffled shirt and feather tie, reminiscent of Gluck’s later works. An organza shift dress with black trims and beaded skirts further enhances the uniqueness of the collection. Every detail, from hand-painted beads to intricate pleats, is a small work of art, creating a harmonious and inspiring whole.
JW Anderson
For Spring-Summer 2025, JW Anderson brings a revolutionary approach by imposing strict limitations. Instead of working with a variety of fabrics, the designer focuses on a select few, making them the centerpiece of his creations. Satin silk is the star of the collection, while cashmere, calfskin, sequins, and lace are used sparingly but effectively. This approach proves that minimalism can create unique and impactful designs.
JW Anderson’s signature humor is evident in trompe-l’œil designs, pleated skirts that defy physics, and torn sweaters mimicking skyscrapers. The contrast between oversized fabric layers and body-hugging cuts creates a visually stunning harmony. Flat boots flaring at the ankles offer a playful twist, softening the sharp lines of the designs. The Loafer bag, simple yet elegant, serves as a connecting piece that harmonizes seemingly opposing elements.
Simone Rocha
Known for breaking traditional fashion rules, Simone Rocha continues her experimentation by blending strong masculinity with delicate femininity in a romantic yet unique aesthetic. After the success of her Victorian-inspired collection, Rocha surprises fashion aficionados with fresh, unexpected designs for Spring-Summer 2025.
Her new collection opens with a bold black coat with daring slits. Models tenderly wrap themselves in the coat, seeking warmth in the fashion space. The contrast of black and soft pink, delicate tulle, and organza fabrics, paired with ballet shoes and knee-high socks, creates a poetic and melancholic fashion scene, characteristic of Rocha’s signature style.
Inspired by legendary choreographers Pina Bausch and Michael Clark, particularly Bausch’s “Nelken” from the 1980s, Simone Rocha fills her collection with carnation flowers, blending softness with boldness.
Richard Quinn
Richard Quinn, known for his dedication to mid-20th-century-inspired designs, stays true to his aesthetic in Spring-Summer 2025. With experience in bridal fashion, Quinn brings a sense of occasion to his collection, featuring voluminous gowns, classic florals, and an emphasis on extravagant details, perfectly suited for special moments.
Quinn’s collection radiates opulence, with maximalist pieces adorned with sequins, bows, and lavish layers of fabric. His signature floral motifs, especially roses, remain a hallmark of his work, alongside luxurious, over-the-top designs that defy the trend of “quiet luxury.”
Chopova Lowena
Chopova Lowena’s Spring-Summer 2025 collection is an intriguing dialogue between the past and present. Designers Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena-Irons artfully combine the rugged wild west of America with the refined elegance of the Victorian era. The collection showcases rebellious rodeo girls and graceful performers, merging leather jackets, rough jeans, with soft ruffles and corsets.
Chopova Lowena’s unique blend of masculinity and femininity, old-world charm, and modern flair results in an exciting fashion symphony. The collaboration with Asics on the GEL Quantum 360 VIII sneaker reflects the vibrant energy and bold spirit of the collection, while funds from the sneaker sales will support mental health initiatives through the 999 Club in Southeast London.
