VALENTINO SPRING-SUMMER 2025 COLLECTION: ALESSANDRO MICHELE BREAKS THE “SILENCE” OF LUXURY FASHION

Making a comeback under the new roof of Valentino, designer Alessandro Michele awakens the heritage of founder Garavani from the 1960s and 70s with maximalism and eclecticism through his faithful perspective of the past.

After nearly two years, luxury fashion seems to have chosen a calmer path with the more restrained designs of “quiet luxury.” However, designer Alessandro Michele has officially returned and is ready to stir the current fashion landscape. His absence has led many to reminisce about the maximalist and eclectic designs he once brought. Fashion lovers remember the emotionally charged runway shows and the fashion philosophy that celebrated the diverse, holistic beauty of humanity, ethnicity, identity, and time.

He is back. Old friends from the past gathered to celebrate, including Florence Welch, YoonA (SNSD), Harry Styles, Elton John, and Jared Leto, who all attended the Valentino Spring-Summer 2025 show. Everyone settled in and prepared to witness the highly anticipated performance themed “Pavillon des Folies” (translated: The House of Whimsy).

And indeed, the presentation space was arranged like an abandoned house, steeped in a sense of mystery. The layered interiors were draped with dusty curtains, dim lights, and a cracked mirror floor. Guests could sense the strangeness yet compelling allure, feeling as if they were walking into Michele’s new Valentino home, gradually uncovering the captivating heritage of the past that awaited revelation. “I don’t see this as an office or workspace, but as a private space of an individual who once lived with precious but fragile artifacts,” the designer shared.

It’s no surprise that Alessandro Michele’s return to Valentino has sparked a lively debate. One camp joyfully welcomes the return of colorful maximalist and eclectic designs, while the other feels that his creations do not remain true to the brand’s new DNA. To find out the answer, we need to look back at Valentino’s heritage for comparison.

Timeless fashion elements are skillfully woven together, providing viewers with a unique sense of nostalgia for the 1960s and 70s—the period of Valentino’s inception and development. The opening act featured an enigmatic black pencil dress adorned with a tuxedo bow at the chest, perfectly paired with “Valentino Rosso” red lace tights and alluring black lace gloves.

The aesthetics of clowns and circuses, bringing joy and a festive atmosphere, were infused into each design, starting with the return of polka dots. Patterns in various sizes and black-and-white colors appeared prominently on blazers, tiered dresses, oversized shawls, and even on veils. The soft pleated Pierrot collar that Garavani once created returned, combined with tightly gathered sleeves and cuffs lightly adorned with ruffles.